Viet Nam - Halong Bay

At the start of writing this one I have absolutely no idea when the post will stop. Halong Bay and our swashbuckling escapades on the Dragon Pearl III (or DP III as our Aussie compatriots giggled - naughty girls) was in short, pretty darn fabtasticismo.

Being picked up from Hanoi early in the morning for the 3-4 hour journey to the coast was an easy way to get here. We were second in the bus. A Dutch couple, Mike and Karlyn, were already boarded and along the way we picked up a mystical foursome of Australians who went by the assumed identities of Martine, Annie, Zeb and Michelle. As you read on you'll realise how these four women would feature fairly heavily in the laughs that would follow, but know that at the incubus of our meeting, we had not idea who they were, what they were doing here and how much we'd laugh together. We just figured they were mysterious and had lovely smiles.

A toilet break at the half way point was a great opportunity for us to use the all too shabby toilet facilities at a store that sold eveything we'd already seen everywhere else, but at prices so inflated I thought it was sure to burst. A simple piece of art that was found at the ubiquitous stalls in Hanoi for four or five dollars depending on your negotiation skills was heading north of $100 here. I relieved myself and went outside to see talented rock artists fashion incredible sculptures using angle grinders and chisels. Bit of a bugger that our ongoing flights had a weight restriction as a couple of lions I though would go down rather splendidly on our beach in the US. They really were quite fantastic pieces and it was a shame they were located next to such an overpriced tourist store.


Upon arrival at the Indochina Junk Tours office in Halong Bay we settled in and watched the Aussie four taste test tubes of reprocessed potato snack. Then we bought the tube that illicited the most nods. Our tour guide for the next three days was Tinh, a sweet man with good English and a fantastic was of starting everything with "lady and gentlemen" making us all feel very grand and well above our station. With puffed up chests and feeling rather please for ourselves we set off to the waiting bus boat that was to navigate through the throngs of other Junk boats in harbour area.....to our craft, the Dragon Pearl number three. A recently built ship with a maximum capacity of 20 persons not including crew. There were 21 of us.
After boarding, introduction, a complimentary melon drink and the distribution of cabin keys we settled in, pulled anchor and headed out into the fabulously breathtaking Halong Bay (descending dragon).


Rin and I were feeling pleased that we'd said we were on our Honeymoon and were given star treatment (ok, we've no idea whether it was star or not, but we told ourselves that our cabin was the best). The cabin was tight but cozy, the bathroom clean and with a good shower and storage space for Rin's plethora of toilet bags, and there was space on the bedside cabinet for the Japanese whisky that we needed to polish off (I was fed up of lugging it around at this point), and a couple of bottles of water. Now, it is at this point that I will tell you of my one and probably only niggles of the trip. The water supply. The showers were piping hot, the faucets had good pressure, but the allocation of drinking water was akin to a the "Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner" sized ration. Tinh had told us that we'd receive two glasses of water with each meal and a bottle of water each morning. I counted it up, in total, if you took full provided ration, you got an alarmingly low 750ml of water per day to drink.....please bare in mind that we're on a $500 for 48 hours of cruising.

It's here that I'll introduce Wayne and Fiona Bosden. Our introduction to these upstanding Australians was pretty much formally cemented when Wayne told me that Bear Grylls told him (via a show) that you could remain hydrated through salt water enemas.
Corinne and I went swimming for hours that afternoon.


The 48 hours of Junking was well laid out. The basic itinerary was as follows:
Depart, eat, cruise around, kayak, swim, cruise around, eat, drink, sleep, wake, eat, visit locals (and drink), swim, cruise around, eat, kayak, visit beach, eat, drink, sleep, wake, eat, swim, cruise around, check out, eat, applaud, disembark, hugs, get on bus.
I'm not intending to trivialise it, quite the opposite really, there was always something to do and the time to actually sit on the deck was limited, at least in the itinerary. Ocassionally you could forgo an activity and just remain on deck soaking up some rays, or more likely having an afternoon siesta (they needn't be mutually exclusive). The itinerary has some highlights though and I'll devote the ongoing outpouring to them.

The kayaking on the first day was fun. Everyone took part and travelled in pairs. There were a range of abilities but most commented that Rin and I looked particularly skilled. They didn't realise perhaps I was just doing as I was told.


The kayaking gave the ability to get up close and personal to the formations in the Bay. A limestone that was slowly being worn way through the millenia. Unfortunately I suspect the erosion rate is increasing as the rain becomes more acidic. It's has got some years yet though. Here's Wayne and Fei admiring the foliage.


And Zeb (short for Deborah because an ex-boyfriend was either Russian, had a speech impediment, or was really very dyslexic) and Michelle, going all prehistoric on us and searching out a cave. I think secretly they were hoping to find something in there.....a caveman perhaps.


Here we have Brigitte, Marco, Tijmen and Jurre who brought the Dutch contingent up to rival the Aussies. USA and Britain were heavily outnumbered on the trip with 9 Australians, 8 Dutch, a Spaniard and an Irishman (living in Spain) completing the compliment.






On the end of the first day the good ship Dragon Pearl III anchored off the southern edge of a traditional floating fishing village, seen in the background below.


The people here never leave the village, usually marrying within and living almost exclusively on the water. There are five such villages in Halong bay with approximately 150 villagers in each. Their lifestyle is interesting. Poor, yes, very poor, but also very happy. We didn't observe frowning, but we did observe generosity, collectiveness and a determination to preserve who they were and how they lived. I woke early that morning, my head buzzing with all sorts of things. Sitting topside I watched as dawn broke, the floating fishermen of the area rising from their small craft. A wooden boat with low powered two stroke engines and enough room to sleep in a small covered area. I can't all it a cabin. Sometimes they slept in pairs, perhaps father and son, other boats with only one.

Rising from their slumbers they would stretch, tidy the deck of personal possessions, prepare a few lines and then start straight out. From wake to make took each around 2-5 minutes. Not leaving enmasse or in the same directions, each was out to make the day count. I think fishing can be a tranquil life no matter when you do it, but I wonder in my mind whether it is a tranquil life when you fish for your livelyhood and for the survival of your family. Despite only two meals a day and those meals being centred around fish, the floating villagers are healthy, happy and content, many opting to stay and continue the tradition rather than adding to the frentic pace of the city. Long may their way of life continue.


It is a real priviledge to have the opportunity to interact with humans in the way we did. Brief yes, but enlightening also. The things that are important to them are so different to the things that are important to us. Simplicity, laughter and support made them happy. Children were very much the focus with infant mortality low enough for couples who usually wed within the village to sustain two children. Who adapt to their surroundings quickly, learning to fish and how to have fun at an early age.


You'll perhaps notice the similarlity in rowing technique between here and the inland rivers of Viet Nam, the row forward technique worked for them. Here's a few friends sharing the experience with us.
Mike and Karolyn


Mark and Nuevais (sp?)


Jason and Sue infront of the newly rebuilt school that replaced the one destroyed a year ago by a typhoon.


The gang...they started us off on green tea, then the village leader brought out the good stuff, a spirit made of bees and honey, complete with bees in it. It actually tasted pretty good, like a mead without the lasting sweetness.



The highlight of the trip for everyone was yet to come. We had heard of the "BBQ in the cave" but thought little more of if than literally a BBQ in a cave with us milling around supping beers and cocktails, mingling, chatting and eating. What greeted us was something very very special and a memory that I will take with me forever.

The cave was situated up about 40 steps in the side of one of the dramatic rock formations that characterise Halong Bay. After stooping through about 50m of low passageway lit by candlelight were were greeted by a continous peel of applause from the crew. The cave was stunning, with candles everywhere complimenting the exquisitely laid out table.


I had ordered a nice Shiraz ahead of time and seated with Jason, Sue, Wayne, Fiona, Michelle, Zeb, Martine and Annie, were were going to be having a wild time. Conversation flowed freely, interupted only by masterpieces brought out by our charming and attemtive crew. Each course was preceeded by an ornately and detailed carving in vegetable. Doves, an eagle, a dragon and our junk boat all showcased for our delight.


The only bad part about the evening was that it had to end. But when it did, it was was brought to a conclusion in style with the crew serenading us, a mixture of hand claps and singing that was wonderful. Corinne and I along with Mark and Nuevais were also presented with a "Honeymoon" cake and flowers. In return the crew asked for us to sing to them.....hmmm, I wonder who could do that.

I was filled to the gills with pride, admiration and love as Corinne, with no warm up and very little in the way of introduction, mesmerised the cave. First with an Ella number, the harmonics of the cave accentuating the velvety chocolately low notes, seducing peoples jaws to drop and stay there. Then with O'Danny Boy, pulling those who knew it into a fine rendition of an Irish classic. Nothing was missing, it was perfect.